Artificial grass looks good only when what lies beneath it is built right. The infill, the base, the drainage layer, and the finishing details determine whether your turf stays flat and odor-free for years or develops dips, puddles, seams that lift, and smells that linger. This guide walks you through each layer, explains what San Antonio's limestone and clay soils demand, and shows you what to ask for in writing before any work begins. Whether you are converting a lawn that has died in the heat, creating a dog area that can handle rain and traffic, or preparing a yard for a move-in or an event, you will finish this guide knowing what separates a solid installation from a shortcut.
The information here applies to residential yards, pet turf and dog runs, pool surrounds, patios, and commercial properties in San Antonio and the surrounding areas. It is written for homeowners and property managers who want to understand the work, not just approve an invoice.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the material that sits on top of the turf backing, between and around the synthetic fibres. It serves as ballast to hold the turf down, protects the backing from ultraviolet light, adds weight to help with drainage, and creates the base on which your foot lands. The most common infill is silica sand, a fine-grained mineral that is affordable and effective. Silica is the baseline for cost and performance, though it can compact over time and feel harder underfoot than some alternatives.
Coated sand infills are silica particles rounded and sometimes colored or treated to be gentler on the touch and to resist compaction. They cost more than plain silica but wear better and can feel closer to natural turf. Zeolite is a microporous mineral added to infill to help absorb and neutralize pet urine odors; it is often blended with sand or used in a layer. Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills, sold under brand names such as Envirofill, are engineered to reduce bacterial growth and lower surface temperature in the intense San Antonio sun. These premium options cost significantly more but address specific concerns: pet odor, heat retention, or durability in high-traffic areas.
Crumb rubber, made from recycled tires, is standard for sports fields and playgrounds where impact absorption is critical, but it is rarely specified for residential yards because of cost, heat absorption, and maintenance demands. Your choice of infill depends on your use case, budget, and the climate stress your yard will face. A qualified installer will recommend a product and infill type in writing, with the pounds per square foot specified.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill is measured in pounds per square foot, and this number is one of the most important specifications on your contract. The infill props up the synthetic fibres so they stand upright and look full, protects the backing material from degradation by ultraviolet light, adds weight to anchor the turf against wind and foot traffic, and contributes to the drainage system by creating pathways for water to move through. Too little infill is a common shortcut taken by installers cutting costs: the turf will look thin and flat, the backing will degrade faster, and water will pool instead of draining away.
Typical residential turf requires between 2 and 4 pounds of infill per square foot, depending on the pile height, fibre type, and intended use. Pet areas and high-traffic zones may call for slightly more. A putting green or sports surface will have its own specification. You should always ask your installer for this figure in writing before work begins, and you should confirm during or after installation that the infill has been applied at the specified rate. If an installer cannot or will not provide this number, that is a red flag.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The foundation under artificial grass is built in layers, each with a specific purpose. The first step is to remove the existing lawn, dead grass, weeds, and roots down to bare soil. If old turf is being replaced, it must be cut out and hauled away completely; roots and debris left behind will create soft spots and uneven settling. Next, the area is excavated and graded so that water runs away from the house, the pool, and any structures. On sloped terrain, this is straightforward; on flat yards, a gentle fall of one-quarter inch per foot is typical. Grading is the moment to fix drainage problems at the source: if water pools in a corner or a low spot, the base must slope to a drain or a swale, not be buried under turf.
Once grading is complete, a weed barrier (landscape fabric) is laid down to prevent weeds from growing up through the turf. This is optional in some cases but essential in areas with persistent weed pressure or where the base material is very porous. On top of the weed barrier comes the free-draining base layer, typically two to four inches of decomposed granite, crushed limestone, or engineered base rock. This layer is compacted firmly in lifts (in sections) using a plate compactor; loose base causes dips, puddles, and uneven settling that gets worse over time. For pet areas, play spaces, or hard surfaces like patios and balconies, an optional draining underlay or cushioning pad is installed next, then the turf itself. On concrete, balconies, or rooftops where water cannot percolate into the ground, a permeable underlay with edge drainage is essential; turf glued flat to a slab that holds water will trap moisture, cause odor, and fail prematurely.
Base Prep on San Antonio Caliche: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
San Antonio's soil is a mix of rocky limestone in the north and heavy black clay in the south, with caliche (a hard, calcium-cemented layer) common throughout. Caliche is virtually impermeable and drains poorly; water sits on top of it instead of soaking through. This is why base preparation is not optional in San Antonio: an uncompacted or inadequate base will cause the turf to settle unevenly, create puddles that hold water and odor, and fail in the monsoon rains that arrive in spring and early fall. The base must be excavated through the existing soil and caliche, graded with a slope away from the house and pool, and compacted firmly in lifts using a plate compactor. Typically, three to four inches of compacted base material is specified for residential work, though sloped or high-traffic areas may need more.
The base material itself is usually decomposed granite or crushed limestone base rock, both of which drain freely and compact well. The compaction is critical: a loose base will settle and shift under foot traffic and rain, creating dips and soft spots that collect water and odor. A plate compactor applies consistent pressure and is the only way to achieve the density required. If a yard has a genuine water problem (poor drainage, standing water, or a high water table), base prep alone may not solve it. In those cases, the yard may need a perimeter drain, a french drain, or regrading that goes beyond the scope of turf installation. We will be honest about whether drainage can be fixed with base work or whether the problem is bigger: if it cannot be solved, we will decline the job rather than install turf over a failing foundation.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial grass drainage is measured in gallons per hour per square foot, a rate that tells you how fast water moves through the turf backing. There are two main types of backing: perforated (with small holes punched through) and fully permeable (woven or knit to allow water through without holes). Fully permeable backings generally drain faster and are more durable, but both types drain well if the base beneath them is properly prepared and compacted. The drainage rate matters most in two real-world scenarios: a pet area where urine needs to move through quickly to avoid pooling and odor, and a monsoon downpour where inches of rain fall in minutes. A turf with excellent drainage can still fail if the base underneath is compacted poorly or if the yard does not slope away from the house. Drainage is a system: the turf, the optional underlay or pad, the base, and the grading all have to work together.
For hard surfaces like patios, balconies, and pool decks, an underlay or drainage pad is often installed between the turf and the concrete. This pad allows water to move sideways and down to a drain or edge instead of sitting on the concrete. On a rooftop or balcony, edge drainage is essential to prevent water from pooling at the perimeter. Putting greens and sports surfaces have their own drainage specifications because ball roll and play performance depend on precise water movement. Do not assume that a high-drainage turf will solve a drainage problem on a bad base: ask your installer to explain how water will move through your specific yard, from the turf down through the base and away from the house. If the answer is vague, ask for it in writing.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The finishing details separate a professional installation from a shortcut job. Seams are where two pieces of turf meet, and they are joined with seam tape and a polyurethane or latex adhesive. A good seam is aligned so the grain of the fibres runs in the same direction on both sides, making the seam nearly invisible when the turf is brushed. Poor seam work shows up as visible lines, fibres running in different directions, or edges that lift and curl. Nails or staples hold the perimeter and any seams down; they are spaced at intervals (typically six to eight inches) and driven flush so they do not catch your foot. The spacing and fastening method should be specified in your contract.
Edges are finished with bender board (a flexible metal or plastic edging), a solid perimeter secured to the base, or turf cut tight to pavers or hardscape. A clean edge tells you the installer took time to measure and cut precisely. Lifted edges, especially at seams, indicate poor adhesive application, inadequate fastening, or settling of the base underneath. After installation, the turf is power broomed: a mechanical brush stands the fibres up, spreads the infill evenly, and gives the turf a finished appearance. This step also helps the seams blend. If you see a visible seam weeks or months after installation, or if an edge begins to lift, contact your installer. These are workmanship issues that should be covered under a warranty.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before any work begins, you should receive a written specification that describes every material and method your installer will use. This spec is your protection and your reference if questions arise later. It should include the turf product name and fibre type (polyethylene, polypropylene, or nylon), the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in millimeters, the backing type and drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, the infill type and pounds per square foot, the base material, base depth, and compaction method, whether a weed barrier will be used, the seam joining method, the edging type, cleanup and haul-off, and the workmanship warranty period. A one- to three-year workmanship warranty on the installation is standard; manufacturer warranties are separate and should be requested from the turf supplier if they apply.
This spec is also your checklist for verifying any turf installer, including us. A fully insured turf installation company should be able to provide this information in writing before you commit. If an installer offers a price without specifying these details, or if they cannot explain why they chose a particular infill amount or base depth, you do not have enough information to make a decision. The pricing for your project will depend on the size of the area, the existing conditions, the products you choose, and the complexity of the site. Get a free estimate with an on-site measurement so you understand what you are paying for and what you are getting.